I'm looking to get a crankbait setup. I'm not a big fan of bait casting reals because it seems like i'm spending more time getting backlashes out than fishing, so i'm thinking about getting a spin reel okuma makes that has a 6.2:1 gear ratio. What do you crankbait fisherman think of spin gear for cranking? If you think using spinning gear will suck please explain why so i have an idea.
Tackle
Not every rod in your rod locker is going to be good for catching fish with the crankbait. A good crankbait rod should have a relatively slow action. In other words, the rod should start to bend down about half way down when moderate pressure is applied to the top section. Fast action means that just the top third will bend with the same pressure.
Slower rods will help cast the lure further and help keep from tearing out the hooks when you catch a strong fish or when your fish turns and runs hard near the boat. Many experts contend that the slower action will also give the bass a little more time to inhale the bait before you set the hook, ensuring that you don't rip the bait away from the fish before it gets the hook. Tackle Warehouse carries an extensive selection of cranking rods that are designed specifically for this style of fishing.
If you don't have a cranking rod, select a medium action rod or a fiberglass rod that will have enough power to cast the big lures and handle heavy fish. Avoid a stiff, heavy rod and don't use one that is too wimpy, because you will need to get a good hookset on fish that may be far from the boat and a rod that has no backbone won't get the job done for you.
Reels are a little less critical for effective cranking but many experienced anglers select reels with 4:1 or 5:1 gear ratios to slow down the bait and provide more power for cranking in heavy fish. Make sure the reel has plenty of line capacity since you will often be making long casts. With a little wind at your back you can send a big crankbait a long way.
Not every rod in your rod locker is going to be good for catching fish with the crankbait. A good crankbait rod should have a relatively slow action. In other words, the rod should start to bend down about half way down when moderate pressure is applied to the top section. Fast action means that just the top third will bend with the same pressure.
Slower rods will help cast the lure further and help keep from tearing out the hooks when you catch a strong fish or when your fish turns and runs hard near the boat. Many experts contend that the slower action will also give the bass a little more time to inhale the bait before you set the hook, ensuring that you don't rip the bait away from the fish before it gets the hook. Tackle Warehouse carries an extensive selection of cranking rods that are designed specifically for this style of fishing.
If you don't have a cranking rod, select a medium action rod or a fiberglass rod that will have enough power to cast the big lures and handle heavy fish. Avoid a stiff, heavy rod and don't use one that is too wimpy, because you will need to get a good hookset on fish that may be far from the boat and a rod that has no backbone won't get the job done for you.
Reels are a little less critical for effective cranking but many experienced anglers select reels with 4:1 or 5:1 gear ratios to slow down the bait and provide more power for cranking in heavy fish. Make sure the reel has plenty of line capacity since you will often be making long casts. With a little wind at your back you can send a big crankbait a long way.
I'm pretty sure I saw a crank bait spinning rod at bass pro
I'm pretty sure I saw the police floating outside my 6th floor window back on my using days too! Lmao x 1000000000000000
Seriously the day I was buying my awesome Quantum KVD baitcast cranking stick that's gonna win Billington for me. It was right next to it
I'm pretty sure I saw a crank bait spinning rod at bass pro
I'm pretty sure I saw the police floating outside my 6th floor window back on my using days too! Lmao x 1000000000000000
Seriously the day I was buying my awesome Quantum KVD baitcast cranking stick that's gonna win Billington for me. It was right next to it
Pulling your chain Sean, or is it Shawn? I forget lol
I'm pretty sure I saw a crank bait spinning rod at bass pro
I'm pretty sure I saw the police floating outside my 6th floor window back on my using days too! Lmao x 1000000000000000
Seriously the day I was buying my awesome Quantum KVD baitcast cranking stick that's gonna win Billington for me. It was right next to it
Pulling your chain Sean, or is it Shawn? I forget lol
DAMMIT!!! We had something special
I'm pretty sure I saw a crank bait spinning rod at bass pro
I'm pretty sure I saw the police floating outside my 6th floor window back on my using days too! Lmao x 1000000000000000
Seriously the day I was buying my awesome Quantum KVD baitcast cranking stick that's gonna win Billington for me. It was right next to it
Pulling your chain Sean, or is it Shawn? I forget lol
DAMMIT!!! We had something special
Had being the key word , I've moved on , lmao
While i can't catch a fish on a crank-bait if i had to 
I do use spinning gear for lighter crank-baits and they work great.
Niel i mean Neil nailed down the action you want. A good parabolic bend is key. I know guys have custom rods made often for their specialties. Maybe try That option?
Al Cappy is a great choice
Reservoir Dawgs might have an option too.
Good luck
I do use spinning gear for lighter crank-baits and they work great.
Niel i mean Neil nailed down the action you want. A good parabolic bend is key. I know guys have custom rods made often for their specialties. Maybe try That option?
Al Cappy is a great choice
Reservoir Dawgs might have an option too.
Good luck
The old rod i used for cranking (before i got into baitcasters) was a ugly stick inshore rod. I know ugly sticks arent the best rods but it worked great for me. Like neil mentioned you want a rod that will be able to handle a crankbait. When your using a deep diving crank lighter rods will bend like crazy. On the okuma reel i would suggest on a different company there low end and mid grade reels are junk ( IMO ). I have used and owned a couple different okumas and have been disappointed in there performance. Seems like cheap plastic parts until you get into there real high end equipment. I like to think i take good care of my equipment as well. On 3 of there reels i had after about a year the drag just sh*t the bed. There customer service was terrible as well. Although it seems like everyone has problems with a lot of great companies this is just my two cents in the matter hoping to help you out.
Neil was right on, the rod is probably more important than the reel. The reel needs to be solid to handle 12 to 17 lbs line, but the rod needs the backbone. With a deeper diving crank bait you need to be able to quickly snap a crank bait out of weeds...this where you get most of your bites ripping out of weeds, and rod with backbone required to snap the crank bait.
The other challenge is line. Most folks prefer fluorcarbon on a crank bait, but on a spinning reel fluoro will really twist up quick. I mostly use mono because of this, but the stretch is a problem. Same problem as having a weak rod. When you snap, you need to pull the crank bait out of weeds. I recently tried the Stren fluorocast, and for some reason doesn't twist as much (12lb and 14lbs).
I suck at baitcaster.. so had to figure out how to throw my go too crank baits with the alternate setup
The other challenge is line. Most folks prefer fluorcarbon on a crank bait, but on a spinning reel fluoro will really twist up quick. I mostly use mono because of this, but the stretch is a problem. Same problem as having a weak rod. When you snap, you need to pull the crank bait out of weeds. I recently tried the Stren fluorocast, and for some reason doesn't twist as much (12lb and 14lbs).
I suck at baitcaster.. so had to figure out how to throw my go too crank baits with the alternate setup
Neil was right on, the rod is probably more important than the reel. The reel needs to be solid to handle 12 to 17 lbs line, but the rod needs the backbone. With a deeper diving crank bait you need to be able to quickly snap a crank bait out of weeds...this where you get most of your bites ripping out of weeds, and rod with backbone required to snap the crank bait.
The other challenge is line. Most folks prefer fluorcarbon on a crank bait, but on a spinning reel fluoro will really twist up quick. I mostly use mono because of this, but the stretch is a problem. Same problem as having a weak rod. When you snap, you need to pull the crank bait out of weeds. I recently tried the Stren fluorocast, and for some reason doesn't twist as much (12lb and 14lbs).
I suck at baitcaster.. so had to figure out how to throw my go too crank baits with the alternate setup
Right on the money Doug guys take it from me Doug knows what he is talking about, I watched him fish the crankbait on a spinning rod all day at the finals, fish after fish after fish, as well as a few other tough fisheries where he pulled a limit together on the crankbait