Damon, I have a couple questions if you don't mind. I tried to see by your pics in the beginning of this thread but I can't tell, did you attach the aluminum framework to the sides of the boat or just front and back of the benches and bow? If not how much "give: is in the deck when standing on it? Over the long term how has the spray adhesive held up on that 1st boat you did? I use that same spry at work for indoor applications, never thought to use if for the carpet in my boat.
Awesome job once again. Sam is going to have a rockin ride.
Thanks
Awesome job once again. Sam is going to have a rockin ride.
Thanks
hell yeah guys this is what this site's all about. i can't wait to get back to help finish this up and crank out the transportation elements as well haha.
rich, i know that there's not a lot of give in the deck. it's very stable. but this is coming from a 145 lb. guy. i'm also not sure if damon used the carpet glue i got as well.
i know there have been a few tweaks from the original thread as damon has perfected his craft.
rich, i know that there's not a lot of give in the deck. it's very stable. but this is coming from a 145 lb. guy. i'm also not sure if damon used the carpet glue i got as well.
i know there have been a few tweaks from the original thread as damon has perfected his craft.
Damon, please do me!
Shawn, you know that after watching you and Chevin rub each other down with sunscreen at so many tourneys last year, we are definitely doing you.... but boat work only.... lol
LMAO!!!! That's one vision you can never erase from memory. I'll be getting the boat the day my tax return comes back
Thanks for the question Rich, the frame work is attached through the bow and middle bench seat cleats only in Sam's boat. In this particular case the span between the 2 measured only 40" or so. After rough assembly (and having Dan, Joe and several other "weight enhanced" people lol) hop all over it with no flex I decided to forgo any downward brace.
In other boats that have larger spans, my 14" for instance, and where flex is a concern I attach 2 peices of the same angle aluminium directly beneath the seat or spaced along the 2 center ribs, these are sized to end on the factory ribs the run side to side in the boat floor. With some careful scribing you can notch the angle over the rib and leave enough on the flat side to drill through the angle and the rib and then bolt the two together with a 1/4 20 Bolt and wingnut. The top end is riveted or bolted through the main center "stringers" on the underside of the deck, effectively tiying the two together and taking out ALL flex but leaving it removable.
Again in this instance i found it to not be needed, although if it ever needs it it can be added very easily.
As for 3M adhesive, love it, use it all the time, I do sometimes buy "off" brands or similiar products that I can spray out of my guns but in general the stuff works great even out of the can. I am going to be redoing my own carpet on my boat this year after 5+ years of heavy use, and I used 3M spray adhesive and walmart brand carpet, I dont have adhesive failure anywhere but I've finally worn through the carpet in several spots where I stand all the time or exit and enter the boat.! I would say use it liberally and I always prefer the double tack method as opposed to just spraying one peice.
Ohhh and Sam I had two cans of 3M in my shop, just went and used those, I'm more confident in those than a product I haven't used in this application before. The trowel on product that you brought can be used but its setup time was way to long for my taste, and using a trowel on product you have to be absolutely sure it has set up and is applied evenly or you risk bleed through.
In other boats that have larger spans, my 14" for instance, and where flex is a concern I attach 2 peices of the same angle aluminium directly beneath the seat or spaced along the 2 center ribs, these are sized to end on the factory ribs the run side to side in the boat floor. With some careful scribing you can notch the angle over the rib and leave enough on the flat side to drill through the angle and the rib and then bolt the two together with a 1/4 20 Bolt and wingnut. The top end is riveted or bolted through the main center "stringers" on the underside of the deck, effectively tiying the two together and taking out ALL flex but leaving it removable.
Again in this instance i found it to not be needed, although if it ever needs it it can be added very easily.
As for 3M adhesive, love it, use it all the time, I do sometimes buy "off" brands or similiar products that I can spray out of my guns but in general the stuff works great even out of the can. I am going to be redoing my own carpet on my boat this year after 5+ years of heavy use, and I used 3M spray adhesive and walmart brand carpet, I dont have adhesive failure anywhere but I've finally worn through the carpet in several spots where I stand all the time or exit and enter the boat.! I would say use it liberally and I always prefer the double tack method as opposed to just spraying one peice.
Ohhh and Sam I had two cans of 3M in my shop, just went and used those, I'm more confident in those than a product I haven't used in this application before. The trowel on product that you brought can be used but its setup time was way to long for my taste, and using a trowel on product you have to be absolutely sure it has set up and is applied evenly or you risk bleed through.
The 14' is really about it or pushing the limit of cartoppablility. I can move mine around off the trailer or cartop it if I need to but it sure is easier launching it off a trailer!!
I know that besides the obvious length differences I believe (Im sure someone knows) there is a pretty good jump in base weight between the 14 to the 15, if your going 14' you can still put it in a truck (I've carried mine on my van roof) if you step up to the 15' I'd vote she become a trailer queen. After working on Sams now Im more convinced that the optimal cartopper is between 10' and 12'. Gonna try and round up a 10' this year and play with some designs.
I will say after owning my 14' for 8 years now I've never found myself nor anyone else saying "man i wish I was 12" longer..." lol
One thing thou is my old school 14' has a built in livewell, not sure when but Tracker now only offers that in the 15'.
I know that besides the obvious length differences I believe (Im sure someone knows) there is a pretty good jump in base weight between the 14 to the 15, if your going 14' you can still put it in a truck (I've carried mine on my van roof) if you step up to the 15' I'd vote she become a trailer queen. After working on Sams now Im more convinced that the optimal cartopper is between 10' and 12'. Gonna try and round up a 10' this year and play with some designs.
I will say after owning my 14' for 8 years now I've never found myself nor anyone else saying "man i wish I was 12" longer..." lol
One thing thou is my old school 14' has a built in livewell, not sure when but Tracker now only offers that in the 15'.
Damon go ahead and keep the carpet glue for some other future use haha.
If you can't find the finder mount compnents, I threw all of the screws into that small plastic bag that's in the finder box. We obviously don't have to worry about getting the cables through the hull for it which is a good thing.
That's another thing to keep in mine for people considering their optimal setup. Yes, I want to just launch and fish but I store all of my stuff indoors so I need to be able to unplug everything easily. So while the finder mount will be mounted, I'm keeping the transducer and power cables out of the hull. I'll just attach them to the finder when I snap it in the mount. That's the only thing that has to be secured to the deck. I have a short power cable that connects to a small 8ah 12 v battery that was part of a portable finder pack.
I can't speak to the difference in stability but the 15' is 6" wider but about 70 pounds heavier. The marine alloy is thicker though. I personally wanted it as light as possible but if you trailer it, I guess it's not a big deal. One good thing about more weight is you won't get blown around in the wind as much I guess.
I was thinking $300 as well then I said, let's just do this one time and do it right!
Last edited by samf on Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:10 pm; edited 2 times in total
If you can't find the finder mount compnents, I threw all of the screws into that small plastic bag that's in the finder box. We obviously don't have to worry about getting the cables through the hull for it which is a good thing.
That's another thing to keep in mine for people considering their optimal setup. Yes, I want to just launch and fish but I store all of my stuff indoors so I need to be able to unplug everything easily. So while the finder mount will be mounted, I'm keeping the transducer and power cables out of the hull. I'll just attach them to the finder when I snap it in the mount. That's the only thing that has to be secured to the deck. I have a short power cable that connects to a small 8ah 12 v battery that was part of a portable finder pack.
I can't speak to the difference in stability but the 15' is 6" wider but about 70 pounds heavier. The marine alloy is thicker though. I personally wanted it as light as possible but if you trailer it, I guess it's not a big deal. One good thing about more weight is you won't get blown around in the wind as much I guess.
I was thinking $300 as well then I said, let's just do this one time and do it right!
Last edited by samf on Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:10 pm; edited 2 times in total
The 6" isn't gonna make a huge difference, at least in this instance hahaha, I've had everyone from Smoke, Dan, Valpey, and my father whose in a wheelchair (we just transfer and leave the chair) in my boat and never had an issue with stability no matter whose on board or moving around.
And that 300.00 should just about buy most of what you'll need to deck it out and start pimping it out..... I'll leave it at that....
And that 300.00 should just about buy most of what you'll need to deck it out and start pimping it out..... I'll leave it at that....
The 6" isn't gonna make a huge difference, at least in this instance hahaha, I've had everyone from Smoke, Dan, Valpey, and my father whose in a wheelchair (we just transfer and leave the chair) in my boat and never had an issue with stability no matter whose on board or moving around.
And that 300.00 should just about buy most of what you'll need to deck it out and start pimping it out..... I'll leave it at that....
That's exactly the line my brain was working on. That's pretty much a done deal.
The live well will be completely plug and play. We will be wiring a 12v accessory plug after the timer.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|1818199&id=1190214
This plug can also be used as a cell phone charger or for any other 12v accessory.
We are planning on wiring everything into that master panel, so Sam will be able to shut power down to the entire boat if he needs too.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|1818199&id=1190214
This plug can also be used as a cell phone charger or for any other 12v accessory.
We are planning on wiring everything into that master panel, so Sam will be able to shut power down to the entire boat if he needs too.
I'm seriously contemplating dropping my boat off at your house, with the weather the way it is down here and no heat in my garage the idea of re decking my bow seem less and less every day. I'm going to call you this week see if maybe when you are done with sam you wouldn't mind helping me, just the front deck, live well is all installed, just need to move my batteries up front and I have a new 24 volt troller to replace the 12volt
I would like to lighted the set up with the same type of aluminum frame work you are using, I call ya
I would like to lighted the set up with the same type of aluminum frame work you are using, I call ya