Y'all are making me think I'm going to need another rod and reel. I'm currently using an ultra lite 5' ugly stick with 6lb mono.
Yes you will
That's a trout/panfish setup That's way too light for that type of fishing. You need to make a good hookset and 6lb mono won't cut it Ugly Stick is also not a good rod choice for worm fishing, too soft of a tip, You need at least a med. action IM7 graphite rod. The 10lb braid is a good line choice. 
Yeah, the Sud is the Sudbury Res.
Sorry about that. There is a couple of us that have been hitting that place pretty hard over the last few weeks. It's a spot you should definitely give a try. Badlarry & I have been pulling 3 & 4 lbers almost everytime we go. I personally have hit a nice 6 lb & 7+lb lmb not to mention a 3lb smallie from there. It's a great place and senkos are the choice bait here.
Sorry about that. There is a couple of us that have been hitting that place pretty hard over the last few weeks. It's a spot you should definitely give a try. Badlarry & I have been pulling 3 & 4 lbers almost everytime we go. I personally have hit a nice 6 lb & 7+lb lmb not to mention a 3lb smallie from there. It's a great place and senkos are the choice bait here.
I went to Dick's at lunch and picked up some 5" Green Pumpkin & Watermelon Laminate Senkos, and some Gamakatsu 3/0 Offset Shank Worm EWG hooks.
I'll try this combo using my wife's cheap medium rod for now.
To tell you the truth I'm a little confused about rods. I know that IM7 is a rating for graphite rods that denotes responsiveness (IM7 is stiffer than IM6), but most rods I've been looking at are not labeled/listed with IM ratings. They just have length, power and action.
Is the IM rating comparable to action?
Thanks again,
Patrick
I'll try this combo using my wife's cheap medium rod for now.
To tell you the truth I'm a little confused about rods. I know that IM7 is a rating for graphite rods that denotes responsiveness (IM7 is stiffer than IM6), but most rods I've been looking at are not labeled/listed with IM ratings. They just have length, power and action.
Is the IM rating comparable to action?
Thanks again,
Patrick
Here is a link to the bass rod buying guide:
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&&mode=article&objectID=32921&cat=Fishing&subcatID=50&cmid=OLBUYINGGUIDE_32921_TITLE_50
it should help understand what type of rod you need for the type of fishing you want to do.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&&mode=article&objectID=32921&cat=Fishing&subcatID=50&cmid=OLBUYINGGUIDE_32921_TITLE_50
it should help understand what type of rod you need for the type of fishing you want to do.
hook size is different from different brand. rule of thumb #1 is hook come out of egg sack portion of the worm. use wide gap for senko type bait. rule of thumb #2 is the space between the bait and hook shank is at least the same as the bait thickness. 5 inch use 4/0, 3/0. 4 inch use 2/0, 3 inch use 1/0. wacky rigging won't manner what hook to use. senko got ripped in the head and middle, you can do the reverse--rig them tail first. lazy to change line tie? you can use 4/0, 3/0, 2/0 wacky rig it.
Yes! With the Quantum go with the med. action at least 6'6. The Shimano is a med. heavy, that will more than do the job. Having some backbone (stiffness) in the rod is necessary to be able to make solid hooksets You are right, they are not all rated by IM. Fiberglass rods, such as Ugly Stik, Lightnin Rod, will be rated light, med, heavy, etc. Most graphite rods will have the IM rating, but not all will. Can be confusing, I know
You are right, they are not all rated by IM. Fiberglass rods, such as Ugly Stik, Lightnin Rod, will be rated light, med, heavy, etc. Most graphite rods will have the IM rating, but not all will. Can be confusing, I know 
When I fish a senko I use a braided main line with a flurocarbon leader. The braid floats so when I'm letting the senko fall on a slack line, I watch the point where the braid goes under water and as soon as I see that twitch or do something unnatural I set the hook. I've never had a problem with a gut hook that way.
If anyone's looking for Senko's (I know they've been in short supply lately). A new Dick's just opened in Northborough this weekend. (In the Wegman's plaza)
Anyway, checked it out this morning and they are FULLY stocked. You name it, they have it. Plus, if you're on their snail mail list they sent out a $10 off and 200 free points coupon this week for the grand opening. Win, win, win if you're in the area and looking for a fully stocked selection other than BPS.
Can't wait to try out my black with blue flake tomorrow.
Anyway, checked it out this morning and they are FULLY stocked. You name it, they have it. Plus, if you're on their snail mail list they sent out a $10 off and 200 free points coupon this week for the grand opening. Win, win, win if you're in the area and looking for a fully stocked selection other than BPS.
Can't wait to try out my black with blue flake tomorrow.
I am relatively new to bass fishing. I am breaking my line and leader a lot. What I have been doing is making the texas rig by tying mono onto the hook, then leaving 6-8 inches and making a loop, which then goes onto the a swivel. Unfortunately when a big fish hits this, the line (12 lb mono) has been breaking. Should I be tying the line directly to the hook? Or should I be making the hook and loop part out of higher test braided line? Thanks.
For what it's worth, I don't use a leader.
A lot of the time I use 30lb Power Pro (Green) and tie that directly to the hook.
In general it doesn't seem to deter the fish from biting.
When in very clear water I'll often switch to mono or fluro something with a lighter test.
A lot of the time I use 30lb Power Pro (Green) and tie that directly to the hook.
In general it doesn't seem to deter the fish from biting.
When in very clear water I'll often switch to mono or fluro something with a lighter test.
