Hey guys. Like many of you here, I abuse the senko. I hear all the "you'll never learn new techniques", but I actually find it hard to learn new techniques just by looking around this board, I think mostly because almost every lure/technique is referred to with slang/shorthand. So I thought it would be cool if we could all contribute some concentrated and more detailed knowledge in some sort of common format. For example:
Technique Name: self-explanatory
Recommended Lures: mfg/model/size
Recommended Rod: length/action/tip
Recommended Hook: type/size
Recommended Line: type/test
Recommended Sinker: type/weight
Recommended Application: water depth/cover type/water temp
Technique Description: casting/presentation/retrieval
Additional Comments:
Some techniques i'd personally like to learn more about:
jigging, topwater, swimbaits, frogging
So hopefully we can get some good info together and I can bring all the techniques into this first post if we get enough of them, maybe even make it a sticky if it works well. Thanks guys.
As promised, here are all techniques compiled below:
Technique Name: Walking the dog - Submitted by fisheur
Recommended Lures: I like the Rebel Jumpin Minnow but also use Zara Spooks
Recommended Rod: I use either a medium action Pflueger Trion 6'6'' or a medium heavy Abu Garcia Vendetta depending on the size of the lure. I'll use both for either but the smaller sizes definitely work better with the lighter action rod and vice versa.
Recommended Line: I use 25lb braid. It floats and I think that helps with the action a lot.
Recommended Application: Can work good anywhere. Open water, around lillies is excellent, in rocky areas. Pretty much anything shallow but big girls will come up from fairly deep for larger lures on occasion.
Technique Description: Simple walking the dog. With a little slack in the line give it a quick sharp jerk, 1/4 to 1/2 a reel and repeat quickly. Once you get the rhythm its like riding a bike.
I usually do about a medium cadence. At different times it works best if you do it really slow, especially with the smaller sizes. Sometimes a continuous retrieve is best and sometimes pausing every few feet works. Sometimes I really work it as hard and fast as I can for a few feet, pause, then rip it really hard again. This seems to work best in chop. Awesome strikes and pretty damn good hook up percentage. You have to experiment with the retrieve because its different every place and every day.
Additional Comments: From about mid-July in to mid-September I dont have much luck with topwaters during the day. Around sundown the bite comes right back though.
Carolina Rig: - Submitted by stratos1966
Lures: 4-6" creature baits, lizards and senkos
Rods: 6 1/2 - 7' medium heavy to heavy spinning or baitcaster ( I prefer spinning)
Hook: size3/0 and 4/0 EWG. CRUSH BARBS on your hooks gut hooking is high with this technique.
Leader lenth: 1' - 4' with 2 1/2 - 3' the norm. Shorter leaders for clean or rocky areas, longer leaders for weeds. The thicker the weeds, the longer the leader.
Line: 14lb Floro for baitcasters 12-14lb mono for spinning
Sinker: Egg style for rocks, bullet style for weeds. Weight depends on 2 things. In weeds go as light as you can so the rig rests on top of the weeds insted of boging down in the weeds. I will use 1/4 in weeds in less the 15' of water 3/8 in deeper water. In open water 3/8 to start and 1/2 oz to 3/4 depending on wind and depth
Application: works from ice out till ice up but shines post spawn through fall. I use it in depths from 2' to 30'
Technique: Cast to intended target like weed edges, points, humps, flats and drop offs. Let it go to the bottom. Reel up slack and "feel" 75% of the hits come on the initial cast before you even move the bait. If no fish, hold the rod at 9:00 and sweep drag, reel in the slack and repete. Work 1/2 way back to the boat, reel in, cast out and repete.
A fish will feel like a heavy sensation or you will actually feel the tail kick of the fish as it is swimming off with you bait ( thump, thump thump ( your rod will bend like a fish is nibbling but at a slowe pace.
Hold the rod at 9:00 point it at the fish, reel up slack and sweep set back parallel to the water maintaining that 9:00 position.
Technique Name: Double Fluke - Submitted by brazzy
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Your preferred worm hook (I prefer wide gap) X2
Recommended Line: Your choice of line as long as the leaders are fluorocarbon.
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Open water - moderate vegetation.
Technique Description: Series of 1-4 twitches and let it die. Can be retrieved at whatever speed the fish prefer. I usually start fast and progressively slow down until I get bites.
Additional Comments: Tie two leaders to micro swivels. I prefer one leader to be anywhere from 4-8 inches long and the second to be 15-18 inches long. Fluorocarbon on both leaders. Tie your worm hook to the end of each leader. Take the shorter set up and slide it up your main line. Take the longer set up and tie it to the main line. Select your favorite color flukes. They don't have to be the same color, but I prefer them to be similar. I typically throw one in watermelon red/pearl and the other in watermelon red or Houdini. On occasion I will use a 7" magnum super fluke in baby bass on the longer leader as it mimics a small bass chasing a bait fish. Either way it will look amazing and you will get results.
Here is a sample picture. I prefer the Zoom Fluke and micro swivels. Using the two swivels vs a 3-way swivel will relieve a lot of head aches. If the two get twisted simply grab the fluke on the longer leader and hold it horizontal. The two independent swivels will untangle themselves.
Technique Name: Neko Rig - Submitted by brazzy
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Wide gap finesse hook
Recommended Line: 8-12 lb Fluorocarbon
Recommended Sinker: 1/8oz Neko Weight
Recommended Application: Bedding / spawning bass.
Technique Description: Place the neko weight (or nail weight if you cant find neko weights or cant use lead weights per MA law) in the nose of the fluke. Hook the fluke in the back right where the fluke starts to become skinny toward the tail with the hook penetrating roughly half the fluke. Make sure the hook point and barb are exposed. Keep the casts gentle (pitch or flip this bait). Keep tension on the line and let the bait rest on the bottom. Gentle vertical rod twitches. When you pause, maintain tension so the bait does not just lay down in the bed. Keep the tail raised off the bottom.
Additional Comments:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZp1IlhbU-w&feature=player_embedded
Technique Name: Soft Plastic Frog - Submitted by brazzy
Recommended Lures: Zoom Horny Toad
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Stanley Ribbit Double Take Hook
Recommended Line: 12-15 lb Fluorocarbon or braid
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Thick weeds, muck, grass beds, lily pads, etc.
Technique Description: These baits are typically meant to be buzzed across the top. You will see super explosive strikes, but the hook up ratio is on the poor side. I tend to keep it just under the surface with a series of 1-4 sweeping twitches and a pause. Hop it across the top of cover, but when it hits open areas let it die and watch for a strike on the pause. The strikes on these are simply amazing as you see quite a violent strike just under the surface. When the strike takes place subsurface the hook up ratio is significantly better. The Double Take hook also improves the hook up ratio as well as the longevity of the frog.
Technique Name: Tube - Submitted by johnyak
Recommended Lures: Skipping Tubes, I use the xps tube weights by Bass Pro this keeps the weight inside the tube and the hook attatched weedless to the weight.
Recommended Rod: Spinning Rod,I use a 6.5 medium action with a extra fast tip for both techniques. Shimano Crucial (6' rod would be easier to learn on)
Reel, Shimano Stradic c14 model#3000.
Recommended Line: 12 pound braid with at least a 10' flourocarbon leader of 6 to 12 lb test depending on cover. I use a 20' leader if the water is clear and fishing deep. Connect braid to flouro with a uni to uni knot.
Technique Description: The tube can be used multiple ways. The standard jig weight inserted into hollow body with hook exposed. I like the 1/8 or 1/4 oz. for up to 10' deep. Depending on the wind and water depth. The lighter weight will fall slower and spin more. You need to watch your line closely, many of the hits will happen on the fall. Any slight movement or jump in the line take up the slack and set the hook. I like to skip tubes under tree branches and docks trying to mimmick crawfish or baitfish. Side arm cast with the lure just above the water. I like the tube to skip in like I was skipping a flat rock. The perfect cast slides into the strike zone without spooking the fish. The bass will pounce on the tube on the way back out of the cover.
Additional Comments: The tube is my go to bait, I fish it with confidence... Tight Lines!!!
Technique Name: Hollow body frogging – Submitted by anglerinma
Lures: Any make hollow body frogging(I prefer spro and cheap scum frog)
Rods: 6 1/2 - 7' medium heavy to heavy spinning or baitcaster ( I prefer spinning for lighter scum frog and baitcasting for spro or heavier frog)
Line: 30-60lb BRAID is a must!
Application: Works from pre spawn through fall.
Technique: Cast to intended target like slop,pads,laydowns..over hangs,weed edges,etc...There is afew different ways I like to fish it... Cast,let the frog sit for 5-10 seconds,start moving frog with small twitch,twitch pause technique...always pause before you get to an opening in pads,weeds etc...unless of course the fish are attacking anything that moves...The other technique I like to use, is very fast paced..cast and twitch back to the boat with maybe pausing once or twice in between,this gives the fish no time to make a decision ..keep rod low when working frog
Tips: Ok the hookset...I usually dont wait, when the fish hits,I set the hook like I'm trying to brake it...but I know alot out there are so anxious that when they see the visual strike, they set the hook before the fish has really taken it under...if thats the case,look away while working it,this helps with buzzbaits too..set on the noise* of the explosion
Ok here is where things get interesting...a good friend showed me this technique years back..ever come up to a great over hang you just couldnt skip under,or it was difficult to pitch a jig into etc..you know the ones you can tell or see they have water under them for a good distance? Well...cast your frog into that over hang ,and feed line to the frog jiggling if you have to ,to get it to fall so it hits water..sometimes you will only see the ripples on the water that tells you its hitting the water...and then get ready for that noise* of the explosion!! Most fish have not seen anything in those areas and will viciously attack anything that enters that space...you have to have a stout rod and line setup and be ready to plow into that over hang if you dont rip the fish out of it when you set the hook..
Good luck out there..best wishes
Technique Name: Pitching, flipping and skipping – Submitted by stratos1966
Recommended Lures:Jig and Pig and #11 black uncle josh pork frog
Recommended Rod: 7'Medium heavy to heavy baitcaster for flipping and pitching 6' medium heavy for skipping
Recommended Hook: 4/0 or better
Recommended Line: 50lb braid or 17lb floro for baitcaster. 50lb braid for skipping
Recommended Sinker: 1/4 to 3/8 oz
Recommended Application: Relativly Shallow water in and around wood, docks, rocks, trees and overhangs
Technique Description: For Pitching and flipping hold the jig in your hand and use a pendulium action releasing the jig and letting it swing toward its intended target. When I 1st got into pitching I would set up a coffe can in my yard and practice daily pitcing to the can. For skipping cast at a low angle and have the jig hit the water 5-6' from the intended target. When done correctly the jig will skip across the water 1-2 times and land on target. With both techniques WATCH YOUR LINE as soon as the bait hits the water. A "jump in the line or it looking like it has touched bottom too soon means HOOKSET time. Set HARD. Cross the fished eyes. No such thing as too hard a hookset. If no pipck up on the initial cast , short hop or drag it once or twice. If it feels mushy or different. HOOKSET. If nothing after a couple hops or drags, reel in and repete. If you do set and its a fish... keep em coming to clear the cover then play em out in open water but with braid you should be able to dominate them and bring them right to the net.
Look for cover in deeper water but I have caught them in as little as 6". Dont pussyfoot around. Make your 1st cast count. Pitch it or skip it to the thickest part of the cover you are fishing. Worry about getting the fish out after you hook them.
Additional Comments:
Colors do not matter black, brown, black and blue. black and brown all work. Pick one you like and stick with it. No need to have 15 different color combos. I throw straight black with black pork 90% of the time. For super clear water you might want to go with some brown and /or watermelon mixed in for some contrast.
I only fish jigs with built in rattles. Its what I have confidence in. I know others that not only dont use rattles but hate rattles. Its a personal preference. Don't buy your jigs from BPS. 90% of what they have sucks. Tackle warehouse has a much better quality selection.
Technique Name: Drop shot - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Reins, Roboworm, Z-man
Recommended Rod: 6'8" - 7' medium light with an extra fast tip. Ok fine, G. Loomis NRX 822S DSR 6'10" Mag Medium / XF
Recommended Line: 6-8 lb. fluoro.
Recommended Application: This is typically a deep water vertical presentation although you can cast and drag or even modify the setup for shallower water or "power shotting."
Technique: Most of the time I'm fishing 20+ feet of water using electronics to watch my drop shot rig fall through the water column and watching the fish react ad even hit the rig in real time.
Tips: Pay attention to how the fish react to the drop shot. If they don't react, try a different color, lure, or action. Some people like to shake the rig in place. I don't get a lot of bites when I shake it. It's more natural to let it sit there and let the current create a natural motion. Also, your natural hand movements will make the setup move a lot more than you think so you don't need to overdo it.
Technique Name: Topwater - Walking the dog - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Spooks, LC Sammy, LC Gunfish
Recommended Rod: 6'6" - 7' M or MH rod with a moderate / moderate fast tip. You want give in the tip to help with walking.
Recommended Line: 10-12 lb. mono. It floats and the stretch helps with hook sets and makes walking easier.
Recommended Application: Open water, weed lines, around cover. Wherever.
Technique Description: Downward jerking cadence on slack line while reeling in the slack. Try everything from a constant walk to a stop and go or walk / pause / walk.
Additional Comments: Topwater usually gets going around the spawn through the fall.
Technique Name: Pitching / Flipping - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Anything you can texas rig on a stout straight shank hook like a Mustad Grip Pin
Recommended Rod: A long heavy rod is key here for accuracy, distance, picking up line etc. 7 - 7'6" flipping stick with a lot of backbone but some give in the tip.
Recommended Hook: Mustad Denny Brauer Grip Pin Max Flippin' Hook or Strike King Hack Attack
Recommended Line: 50 - 65 lb. braid
Recommended Sinker: 1/4 to 3/4 oz
Recommended Application: Wood, docks, rocks, trees, overhangs, pads, slop, weeds, brush
Technique Description: Lots of videos out there on proper technique. Hold the lure in your hand and drop the rod tip as you let go of the lure. It's a pendulum motion and you need to feather the line with your thumb.
Technique Name: Frogs - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Spro, Koppers
Recommended Rod: 7' - 7'5" Heavy with a fast tip.
Recommended Line: Nothing less than 50 lb. braid unless you're fishing open water.
Recommended Application: The usual - In and and around wood, docks, but they really excel around trees, overhangs, pads, slop, weeds, brush
Technique: You can either pull it, twitch it, or walk it. Figure out what's working best. I like walking the frog in place in and around sparse weeds. This will really draw a strike when the standard twitch won't. You'll want a rod with a little give in the tip to help make it walk.
Tips: I personally wait on the hookset until I feel the fish. I rarely miss a frog fish now b/c I force myself to wait. Teabag em. Toss a frog on top of a bush or overhang and drop it right down in the shade. Bass will jump right out and hook themselves. You need heavy gear to yank them out.
Last edited by jgt11 on Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:52 am; edited 3 times in total
Technique Name: self-explanatory
Recommended Lures: mfg/model/size
Recommended Rod: length/action/tip
Recommended Hook: type/size
Recommended Line: type/test
Recommended Sinker: type/weight
Recommended Application: water depth/cover type/water temp
Technique Description: casting/presentation/retrieval
Additional Comments:
Some techniques i'd personally like to learn more about:
jigging, topwater, swimbaits, frogging
So hopefully we can get some good info together and I can bring all the techniques into this first post if we get enough of them, maybe even make it a sticky if it works well. Thanks guys.
As promised, here are all techniques compiled below:
Technique Name: Walking the dog - Submitted by fisheur
Recommended Lures: I like the Rebel Jumpin Minnow but also use Zara Spooks
Recommended Rod: I use either a medium action Pflueger Trion 6'6'' or a medium heavy Abu Garcia Vendetta depending on the size of the lure. I'll use both for either but the smaller sizes definitely work better with the lighter action rod and vice versa.
Recommended Line: I use 25lb braid. It floats and I think that helps with the action a lot.
Recommended Application: Can work good anywhere. Open water, around lillies is excellent, in rocky areas. Pretty much anything shallow but big girls will come up from fairly deep for larger lures on occasion.
Technique Description: Simple walking the dog. With a little slack in the line give it a quick sharp jerk, 1/4 to 1/2 a reel and repeat quickly. Once you get the rhythm its like riding a bike.
I usually do about a medium cadence. At different times it works best if you do it really slow, especially with the smaller sizes. Sometimes a continuous retrieve is best and sometimes pausing every few feet works. Sometimes I really work it as hard and fast as I can for a few feet, pause, then rip it really hard again. This seems to work best in chop. Awesome strikes and pretty damn good hook up percentage. You have to experiment with the retrieve because its different every place and every day.
Additional Comments: From about mid-July in to mid-September I dont have much luck with topwaters during the day. Around sundown the bite comes right back though.
Carolina Rig: - Submitted by stratos1966
Lures: 4-6" creature baits, lizards and senkos
Rods: 6 1/2 - 7' medium heavy to heavy spinning or baitcaster ( I prefer spinning)
Hook: size3/0 and 4/0 EWG. CRUSH BARBS on your hooks gut hooking is high with this technique.
Leader lenth: 1' - 4' with 2 1/2 - 3' the norm. Shorter leaders for clean or rocky areas, longer leaders for weeds. The thicker the weeds, the longer the leader.
Line: 14lb Floro for baitcasters 12-14lb mono for spinning
Sinker: Egg style for rocks, bullet style for weeds. Weight depends on 2 things. In weeds go as light as you can so the rig rests on top of the weeds insted of boging down in the weeds. I will use 1/4 in weeds in less the 15' of water 3/8 in deeper water. In open water 3/8 to start and 1/2 oz to 3/4 depending on wind and depth
Application: works from ice out till ice up but shines post spawn through fall. I use it in depths from 2' to 30'
Technique: Cast to intended target like weed edges, points, humps, flats and drop offs. Let it go to the bottom. Reel up slack and "feel" 75% of the hits come on the initial cast before you even move the bait. If no fish, hold the rod at 9:00 and sweep drag, reel in the slack and repete. Work 1/2 way back to the boat, reel in, cast out and repete.
A fish will feel like a heavy sensation or you will actually feel the tail kick of the fish as it is swimming off with you bait ( thump, thump thump ( your rod will bend like a fish is nibbling but at a slowe pace.
Hold the rod at 9:00 point it at the fish, reel up slack and sweep set back parallel to the water maintaining that 9:00 position.
Technique Name: Double Fluke - Submitted by brazzy
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Your preferred worm hook (I prefer wide gap) X2
Recommended Line: Your choice of line as long as the leaders are fluorocarbon.
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Open water - moderate vegetation.
Technique Description: Series of 1-4 twitches and let it die. Can be retrieved at whatever speed the fish prefer. I usually start fast and progressively slow down until I get bites.
Additional Comments: Tie two leaders to micro swivels. I prefer one leader to be anywhere from 4-8 inches long and the second to be 15-18 inches long. Fluorocarbon on both leaders. Tie your worm hook to the end of each leader. Take the shorter set up and slide it up your main line. Take the longer set up and tie it to the main line. Select your favorite color flukes. They don't have to be the same color, but I prefer them to be similar. I typically throw one in watermelon red/pearl and the other in watermelon red or Houdini. On occasion I will use a 7" magnum super fluke in baby bass on the longer leader as it mimics a small bass chasing a bait fish. Either way it will look amazing and you will get results.
Here is a sample picture. I prefer the Zoom Fluke and micro swivels. Using the two swivels vs a 3-way swivel will relieve a lot of head aches. If the two get twisted simply grab the fluke on the longer leader and hold it horizontal. The two independent swivels will untangle themselves.
Technique Name: Neko Rig - Submitted by brazzy
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Wide gap finesse hook
Recommended Line: 8-12 lb Fluorocarbon
Recommended Sinker: 1/8oz Neko Weight
Recommended Application: Bedding / spawning bass.
Technique Description: Place the neko weight (or nail weight if you cant find neko weights or cant use lead weights per MA law) in the nose of the fluke. Hook the fluke in the back right where the fluke starts to become skinny toward the tail with the hook penetrating roughly half the fluke. Make sure the hook point and barb are exposed. Keep the casts gentle (pitch or flip this bait). Keep tension on the line and let the bait rest on the bottom. Gentle vertical rod twitches. When you pause, maintain tension so the bait does not just lay down in the bed. Keep the tail raised off the bottom.
Additional Comments:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZp1IlhbU-w&feature=player_embedded
Technique Name: Soft Plastic Frog - Submitted by brazzy
Recommended Lures: Zoom Horny Toad
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Stanley Ribbit Double Take Hook
Recommended Line: 12-15 lb Fluorocarbon or braid
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Thick weeds, muck, grass beds, lily pads, etc.
Technique Description: These baits are typically meant to be buzzed across the top. You will see super explosive strikes, but the hook up ratio is on the poor side. I tend to keep it just under the surface with a series of 1-4 sweeping twitches and a pause. Hop it across the top of cover, but when it hits open areas let it die and watch for a strike on the pause. The strikes on these are simply amazing as you see quite a violent strike just under the surface. When the strike takes place subsurface the hook up ratio is significantly better. The Double Take hook also improves the hook up ratio as well as the longevity of the frog.
Technique Name: Tube - Submitted by johnyak
Recommended Lures: Skipping Tubes, I use the xps tube weights by Bass Pro this keeps the weight inside the tube and the hook attatched weedless to the weight.
Recommended Rod: Spinning Rod,I use a 6.5 medium action with a extra fast tip for both techniques. Shimano Crucial (6' rod would be easier to learn on)
Reel, Shimano Stradic c14 model#3000.
Recommended Line: 12 pound braid with at least a 10' flourocarbon leader of 6 to 12 lb test depending on cover. I use a 20' leader if the water is clear and fishing deep. Connect braid to flouro with a uni to uni knot.
Technique Description: The tube can be used multiple ways. The standard jig weight inserted into hollow body with hook exposed. I like the 1/8 or 1/4 oz. for up to 10' deep. Depending on the wind and water depth. The lighter weight will fall slower and spin more. You need to watch your line closely, many of the hits will happen on the fall. Any slight movement or jump in the line take up the slack and set the hook. I like to skip tubes under tree branches and docks trying to mimmick crawfish or baitfish. Side arm cast with the lure just above the water. I like the tube to skip in like I was skipping a flat rock. The perfect cast slides into the strike zone without spooking the fish. The bass will pounce on the tube on the way back out of the cover.
Additional Comments: The tube is my go to bait, I fish it with confidence... Tight Lines!!!
Technique Name: Hollow body frogging – Submitted by anglerinma
Lures: Any make hollow body frogging(I prefer spro and cheap scum frog)
Rods: 6 1/2 - 7' medium heavy to heavy spinning or baitcaster ( I prefer spinning for lighter scum frog and baitcasting for spro or heavier frog)
Line: 30-60lb BRAID is a must!
Application: Works from pre spawn through fall.
Technique: Cast to intended target like slop,pads,laydowns..over hangs,weed edges,etc...There is afew different ways I like to fish it... Cast,let the frog sit for 5-10 seconds,start moving frog with small twitch,twitch pause technique...always pause before you get to an opening in pads,weeds etc...unless of course the fish are attacking anything that moves...The other technique I like to use, is very fast paced..cast and twitch back to the boat with maybe pausing once or twice in between,this gives the fish no time to make a decision ..keep rod low when working frog
Tips: Ok the hookset...I usually dont wait, when the fish hits,I set the hook like I'm trying to brake it...but I know alot out there are so anxious that when they see the visual strike, they set the hook before the fish has really taken it under...if thats the case,look away while working it,this helps with buzzbaits too..set on the noise* of the explosion
Ok here is where things get interesting...a good friend showed me this technique years back..ever come up to a great over hang you just couldnt skip under,or it was difficult to pitch a jig into etc..you know the ones you can tell or see they have water under them for a good distance? Well...cast your frog into that over hang ,and feed line to the frog jiggling if you have to ,to get it to fall so it hits water..sometimes you will only see the ripples on the water that tells you its hitting the water...and then get ready for that noise* of the explosion!! Most fish have not seen anything in those areas and will viciously attack anything that enters that space...you have to have a stout rod and line setup and be ready to plow into that over hang if you dont rip the fish out of it when you set the hook..
Good luck out there..best wishes
Technique Name: Pitching, flipping and skipping – Submitted by stratos1966
Recommended Lures:Jig and Pig and #11 black uncle josh pork frog
Recommended Rod: 7'Medium heavy to heavy baitcaster for flipping and pitching 6' medium heavy for skipping
Recommended Hook: 4/0 or better
Recommended Line: 50lb braid or 17lb floro for baitcaster. 50lb braid for skipping
Recommended Sinker: 1/4 to 3/8 oz
Recommended Application: Relativly Shallow water in and around wood, docks, rocks, trees and overhangs
Technique Description: For Pitching and flipping hold the jig in your hand and use a pendulium action releasing the jig and letting it swing toward its intended target. When I 1st got into pitching I would set up a coffe can in my yard and practice daily pitcing to the can. For skipping cast at a low angle and have the jig hit the water 5-6' from the intended target. When done correctly the jig will skip across the water 1-2 times and land on target. With both techniques WATCH YOUR LINE as soon as the bait hits the water. A "jump in the line or it looking like it has touched bottom too soon means HOOKSET time. Set HARD. Cross the fished eyes. No such thing as too hard a hookset. If no pipck up on the initial cast , short hop or drag it once or twice. If it feels mushy or different. HOOKSET. If nothing after a couple hops or drags, reel in and repete. If you do set and its a fish... keep em coming to clear the cover then play em out in open water but with braid you should be able to dominate them and bring them right to the net.
Look for cover in deeper water but I have caught them in as little as 6". Dont pussyfoot around. Make your 1st cast count. Pitch it or skip it to the thickest part of the cover you are fishing. Worry about getting the fish out after you hook them.
Additional Comments:
Colors do not matter black, brown, black and blue. black and brown all work. Pick one you like and stick with it. No need to have 15 different color combos. I throw straight black with black pork 90% of the time. For super clear water you might want to go with some brown and /or watermelon mixed in for some contrast.
I only fish jigs with built in rattles. Its what I have confidence in. I know others that not only dont use rattles but hate rattles. Its a personal preference. Don't buy your jigs from BPS. 90% of what they have sucks. Tackle warehouse has a much better quality selection.
Technique Name: Drop shot - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Reins, Roboworm, Z-man
Recommended Rod: 6'8" - 7' medium light with an extra fast tip. Ok fine, G. Loomis NRX 822S DSR 6'10" Mag Medium / XF
Recommended Line: 6-8 lb. fluoro.
Recommended Application: This is typically a deep water vertical presentation although you can cast and drag or even modify the setup for shallower water or "power shotting."
Technique: Most of the time I'm fishing 20+ feet of water using electronics to watch my drop shot rig fall through the water column and watching the fish react ad even hit the rig in real time.
Tips: Pay attention to how the fish react to the drop shot. If they don't react, try a different color, lure, or action. Some people like to shake the rig in place. I don't get a lot of bites when I shake it. It's more natural to let it sit there and let the current create a natural motion. Also, your natural hand movements will make the setup move a lot more than you think so you don't need to overdo it.
Technique Name: Topwater - Walking the dog - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Spooks, LC Sammy, LC Gunfish
Recommended Rod: 6'6" - 7' M or MH rod with a moderate / moderate fast tip. You want give in the tip to help with walking.
Recommended Line: 10-12 lb. mono. It floats and the stretch helps with hook sets and makes walking easier.
Recommended Application: Open water, weed lines, around cover. Wherever.
Technique Description: Downward jerking cadence on slack line while reeling in the slack. Try everything from a constant walk to a stop and go or walk / pause / walk.
Additional Comments: Topwater usually gets going around the spawn through the fall.
Technique Name: Pitching / Flipping - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Anything you can texas rig on a stout straight shank hook like a Mustad Grip Pin
Recommended Rod: A long heavy rod is key here for accuracy, distance, picking up line etc. 7 - 7'6" flipping stick with a lot of backbone but some give in the tip.
Recommended Hook: Mustad Denny Brauer Grip Pin Max Flippin' Hook or Strike King Hack Attack
Recommended Line: 50 - 65 lb. braid
Recommended Sinker: 1/4 to 3/4 oz
Recommended Application: Wood, docks, rocks, trees, overhangs, pads, slop, weeds, brush
Technique Description: Lots of videos out there on proper technique. Hold the lure in your hand and drop the rod tip as you let go of the lure. It's a pendulum motion and you need to feather the line with your thumb.
Technique Name: Frogs - Submitted by samf
Recommended Lures: Spro, Koppers
Recommended Rod: 7' - 7'5" Heavy with a fast tip.
Recommended Line: Nothing less than 50 lb. braid unless you're fishing open water.
Recommended Application: The usual - In and and around wood, docks, but they really excel around trees, overhangs, pads, slop, weeds, brush
Technique: You can either pull it, twitch it, or walk it. Figure out what's working best. I like walking the frog in place in and around sparse weeds. This will really draw a strike when the standard twitch won't. You'll want a rod with a little give in the tip to help make it walk.
Tips: I personally wait on the hookset until I feel the fish. I rarely miss a frog fish now b/c I force myself to wait. Teabag em. Toss a frog on top of a bush or overhang and drop it right down in the shade. Bass will jump right out and hook themselves. You need heavy gear to yank them out.
Last edited by jgt11 on Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:52 am; edited 3 times in total
This is for a lure I haven't really heard of anyone else using so I'll try to give it a shot. Not an uncommon technique but its topwater and you asked so here goes.
Technique Name: Walking the dog
Recommended Lures: I like the Rebel Jumpin Minnow but also use Zara Spooks
Recommended Rod: I use either a medium action Pflueger Trion 6'6'' or a medium heavy Abu Garcia Vendetta depending on the size of the lure. I'll use both for either but the smaller sizes definitely work better with the lighter action rod and vice versa.
Recommended Line: I use 25lb braid. It floats and I think that helps with the action a lot.
Recommended Application: Can work good anywhere. Open water, around lillies is excellent, in rocky areas. Pretty much anything shallow but big girls will come up from fairly deep for larger lures on occasion.
Technique Description: Simple walking the dog. With a little slack in the line give it a quick sharp jerk, 1/4 to 1/2 a reel and repeat quickly. Once you get the rhythm its like riding a bike.
I usually do about a medium cadence. At different times it works best if you do it really slow, especially with the smaller sizes. Sometimes a continuous retrieve is best and sometimes pausing every few feet works. Sometimes I really work it as hard and fast as I can for a few feet, pause, then rip it really hard again. This seems to work best in chop. Awesome strikes and pretty damn good hook up percentage. You have to experiment with the retrieve because its different every place and every day.
Additional Comments: From about mid-July in to mid-September I dont have much luck with topwaters during the day. Around sundown the bite comes right back though.
Technique Name: Walking the dog
Recommended Lures: I like the Rebel Jumpin Minnow but also use Zara Spooks
Recommended Rod: I use either a medium action Pflueger Trion 6'6'' or a medium heavy Abu Garcia Vendetta depending on the size of the lure. I'll use both for either but the smaller sizes definitely work better with the lighter action rod and vice versa.
Recommended Line: I use 25lb braid. It floats and I think that helps with the action a lot.
Recommended Application: Can work good anywhere. Open water, around lillies is excellent, in rocky areas. Pretty much anything shallow but big girls will come up from fairly deep for larger lures on occasion.
Technique Description: Simple walking the dog. With a little slack in the line give it a quick sharp jerk, 1/4 to 1/2 a reel and repeat quickly. Once you get the rhythm its like riding a bike.
I usually do about a medium cadence. At different times it works best if you do it really slow, especially with the smaller sizes. Sometimes a continuous retrieve is best and sometimes pausing every few feet works. Sometimes I really work it as hard and fast as I can for a few feet, pause, then rip it really hard again. This seems to work best in chop. Awesome strikes and pretty damn good hook up percentage. You have to experiment with the retrieve because its different every place and every day.
Additional Comments: From about mid-July in to mid-September I dont have much luck with topwaters during the day. Around sundown the bite comes right back though.
Carolina Rig:
Lures: 4-6" creature baits, lizards and senkos
Rods: 6 1/2 - 7' medium heavy to heavy spinning or baitcaster ( I prefer spinning)
[b]Hook size[/b]: 3/0 and 4/0 EWG. CRUSH BARBS on your hooks gut hooking is high with this tchnique.
Leader lenth: 1' - 4' with 2 1/2 - 3' the norm. Shorter leaders for clean or rocky areas, longer leaders for weeds. The thicker the weeds, the longer the leader.
Line: 14lb Floro for baitcasters 12-14lb mono for spinning
Sinker: Egg style for rocks, bullet style for weeds. Weight depends on 2 things. In weeds go as light as you can so the rig rests on top of the weeds insted of boging down in the weeds. I will use 1/4 in weeds in less the 15' of water 3/8 in deeper water. In open water 3/8 to start and 1/2 oz to 3/4 depending on wind and depth
Application: works from ice out till ice up but shines post spawn through fall. I use it in depths from 2' to 30'
Technique: Cast to intended target like weed edges, points, humps, flats and drop offs. Let it go to the bottom. Reel up slack and "feel" 75% of the hits come on the initial cast before you even move the bait. If no fish, hold the rod at 9:00 and sweep drag, reel in the slack and repete. Work 1/2 way back to the boat, reel in, cast out and repete.
A fish will feel like a heavy sensation or you will actually feel the tail kick of the fish as it is swimming off with you bait ( thump, thump thump ( your rod will bend like a fish is nibbling but at a slowe pace.
Hold the rod at 9:00 point it at the fish, reel up slack and sweep set back parallel to the water maintaining that 9:00 position.
Lures: 4-6" creature baits, lizards and senkos
Rods: 6 1/2 - 7' medium heavy to heavy spinning or baitcaster ( I prefer spinning)
[b]Hook size[/b]: 3/0 and 4/0 EWG. CRUSH BARBS on your hooks gut hooking is high with this tchnique.
Leader lenth: 1' - 4' with 2 1/2 - 3' the norm. Shorter leaders for clean or rocky areas, longer leaders for weeds. The thicker the weeds, the longer the leader.
Line: 14lb Floro for baitcasters 12-14lb mono for spinning
Sinker: Egg style for rocks, bullet style for weeds. Weight depends on 2 things. In weeds go as light as you can so the rig rests on top of the weeds insted of boging down in the weeds. I will use 1/4 in weeds in less the 15' of water 3/8 in deeper water. In open water 3/8 to start and 1/2 oz to 3/4 depending on wind and depth
Application: works from ice out till ice up but shines post spawn through fall. I use it in depths from 2' to 30'
Technique: Cast to intended target like weed edges, points, humps, flats and drop offs. Let it go to the bottom. Reel up slack and "feel" 75% of the hits come on the initial cast before you even move the bait. If no fish, hold the rod at 9:00 and sweep drag, reel in the slack and repete. Work 1/2 way back to the boat, reel in, cast out and repete.
A fish will feel like a heavy sensation or you will actually feel the tail kick of the fish as it is swimming off with you bait ( thump, thump thump ( your rod will bend like a fish is nibbling but at a slowe pace.
Hold the rod at 9:00 point it at the fish, reel up slack and sweep set back parallel to the water maintaining that 9:00 position.
Awesome write-up. So is the 9:00 position mean having the rod straight out in front of you?
With most other techniques you start with your rod in the 9:00 position and then lift it up to the 11 -12 position, drop the rod tip, reel up slack and repete. With the carolina rig, you don't lift up or set the hook in an upward motion. keep the rod at 9:00 and twist your hips while dragging the rod parallel to the water. Start with the rod pointed at where you cast then sweep or drag with the rod straight out at a 90* angle to your body until your body wont pivot anymore, point rod back where your bait is, reel up slack and repete. It's all in the hips!!!
Technique Name: Double Fluke
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Your preferred worm hook (I prefer wide gap) X2
Recommended Line: Your choice of line as long as the leaders are fluorocarbon.
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Open water - moderate vegetation.
Technique Description: Series of 1-4 twitches and let it die. Can be retrieved at whatever speed the fish prefer. I usually start fast and progressively slow down until I get bites.
Additional Comments:
Tie two leaders to micro swivels. I prefer one leader to be anywhere from 4-8 inches long and the second to be 15-18 inches long. Fluorocarbon on both leaders. Tie your worm hook to the end of each leader. Take the shorter set up and slide it up your main line. Take the longer set up and tie it to the main line. Select your favorite color flukes. They don't have to be the same color, but I prefer them to be similar. I typically throw one in watermelon red/pearl and the other in watermelon red or Houdini. On occasion I will use a 7" magnum super fluke in baby bass on the longer leader as it mimics a small bass chasing a bait fish. Either way it will look amazing and you will get results.
Here is a sample picture. I prefer the Zoom Fluke and micro swivels. Using the two swivels vs a 3-way swivel will relieve a lot of head aches. If the two get twisted simply grab the fluke on the longer leader and hold it horizontal. The two independent swivels will untangle themselves.
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Your preferred worm hook (I prefer wide gap) X2
Recommended Line: Your choice of line as long as the leaders are fluorocarbon.
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Open water - moderate vegetation.
Technique Description: Series of 1-4 twitches and let it die. Can be retrieved at whatever speed the fish prefer. I usually start fast and progressively slow down until I get bites.
Additional Comments:
Tie two leaders to micro swivels. I prefer one leader to be anywhere from 4-8 inches long and the second to be 15-18 inches long. Fluorocarbon on both leaders. Tie your worm hook to the end of each leader. Take the shorter set up and slide it up your main line. Take the longer set up and tie it to the main line. Select your favorite color flukes. They don't have to be the same color, but I prefer them to be similar. I typically throw one in watermelon red/pearl and the other in watermelon red or Houdini. On occasion I will use a 7" magnum super fluke in baby bass on the longer leader as it mimics a small bass chasing a bait fish. Either way it will look amazing and you will get results.
Here is a sample picture. I prefer the Zoom Fluke and micro swivels. Using the two swivels vs a 3-way swivel will relieve a lot of head aches. If the two get twisted simply grab the fluke on the longer leader and hold it horizontal. The two independent swivels will untangle themselves.
Technique Name: Neko Rig
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Wide gap finesse hook
Recommended Line: 8-12 lb Fluorocarbon
Recommended Sinker: 1/8oz Neko Weight
Recommended Application: Bedding / spawning bass.
Technique Description: Place the neko weight (or nail weight if you cant find neko weights or cant use lead weights per MA law) in the nose of the fluke. Hook the fluke in the back right where the fluke starts to become skinny toward the tail with the hook penetrating roughly half the fluke. Make sure the hook point and barb are exposed. Keep the casts gentle (pitch or flip this bait). Keep tension on the line and let the bait rest on the bottom. Gentle vertical rod twitches. When you pause, maintain tension so the bait does not just lay down in the bed. Keep the tail raised off the bottom.
Additional Comments:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZp1IlhbU-w[/youtube]
Recommended Lures: Zoom Super Fluke
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Wide gap finesse hook
Recommended Line: 8-12 lb Fluorocarbon
Recommended Sinker: 1/8oz Neko Weight
Recommended Application: Bedding / spawning bass.
Technique Description: Place the neko weight (or nail weight if you cant find neko weights or cant use lead weights per MA law) in the nose of the fluke. Hook the fluke in the back right where the fluke starts to become skinny toward the tail with the hook penetrating roughly half the fluke. Make sure the hook point and barb are exposed. Keep the casts gentle (pitch or flip this bait). Keep tension on the line and let the bait rest on the bottom. Gentle vertical rod twitches. When you pause, maintain tension so the bait does not just lay down in the bed. Keep the tail raised off the bottom.
Additional Comments:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZp1IlhbU-w[/youtube]
Technique Name: Soft Plastic Frog
Recommended Lures: Zoom Horny Toad
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Stanley Ribbit Double Take Hook
Recommended Line: 12-15 lb Fluorocarbon or braid
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Thick weeds, muck, grass beds, lily pads, etc.
Technique Description: These baits are typically meant to be buzzed across the top. You will see super explosive strikes, but the hook up ratio is on the poor side. I tend to keep it just under the surface with a series of 1-4 sweeping twitches and a pause. Hop it across the top of cover, but when it hits open areas let it die and watch for a strike on the pause. The strikes on these are simply amazing as you see quite a violent strike just under the surface. When the strike takes place subsurface the hook up ratio is significantly better. The Double Take hook also improves the hook up ratio as well as the longevity of the frog.
Recommended Lures: Zoom Horny Toad
Recommended Rod: 6'6" minimum / medium / Xfast tip
Recommended Hook: Stanley Ribbit Double Take Hook
Recommended Line: 12-15 lb Fluorocarbon or braid
Recommended Sinker: Weightless
Recommended Application: Thick weeds, muck, grass beds, lily pads, etc.
Technique Description: These baits are typically meant to be buzzed across the top. You will see super explosive strikes, but the hook up ratio is on the poor side. I tend to keep it just under the surface with a series of 1-4 sweeping twitches and a pause. Hop it across the top of cover, but when it hits open areas let it die and watch for a strike on the pause. The strikes on these are simply amazing as you see quite a violent strike just under the surface. When the strike takes place subsurface the hook up ratio is significantly better. The Double Take hook also improves the hook up ratio as well as the longevity of the frog.
Tube fishing, The tube can be used multiple ways. The standard jig weight inserted into hollow body with hook exposed. I like the 1/8 or 1/4 oz. for up to 10' deep. Depending on the wind and water depth. The lighter weight will fall slower and spin more.
Skipping Tubes, I use the xps tube weights by Bass Pro this keeps the weight inside the tube and the hook attatched weedless to the weight.
You need to watch your line closely, many of the hits will happen on the fall. Any slight movement or jump in the line take up the slack and set the hook. I like to skip tubes under tree branches and docks trying to mimmick crawfish or baitfish.
Side arm cast with the lure just above the water. I like the tube to skip in like I was skipping a flat rock. The perfect cast slides into the strike zone without spooking the fish. The bass will pounce on the tube on the way back out of the cover.
Spinning Rod,I use a 6.5 medium action with a extra fast tip for both techniques. Shimano Crucial (6' rod would be easier to learn on)
Reel, Shimano Stradic c14 model#3000.
Line, 12 pound braid with at least a 10' flourocarbon leader of 6 to 12 lb test depending on cover. I use a 20' leader if the water is clear and fishing deep. Connect braid to flouro with a uni to uni knot.
The tube is my go to bait, I fish it with confidence... Tight Lines!!!
Skipping Tubes, I use the xps tube weights by Bass Pro this keeps the weight inside the tube and the hook attatched weedless to the weight.
You need to watch your line closely, many of the hits will happen on the fall. Any slight movement or jump in the line take up the slack and set the hook. I like to skip tubes under tree branches and docks trying to mimmick crawfish or baitfish.
Side arm cast with the lure just above the water. I like the tube to skip in like I was skipping a flat rock. The perfect cast slides into the strike zone without spooking the fish. The bass will pounce on the tube on the way back out of the cover.
Spinning Rod,I use a 6.5 medium action with a extra fast tip for both techniques. Shimano Crucial (6' rod would be easier to learn on)
Reel, Shimano Stradic c14 model#3000.
Line, 12 pound braid with at least a 10' flourocarbon leader of 6 to 12 lb test depending on cover. I use a 20' leader if the water is clear and fishing deep. Connect braid to flouro with a uni to uni knot.
The tube is my go to bait, I fish it with confidence... Tight Lines!!!
Technique Name: Breaking a st croix premiere rod
Step one: leave rod over hanging front of boat by about 18 inches.
Step two: Pull up to launch about three feet short.
Step three: Stand on front of boat and jump to shore.
Step four: make sure when you jump that your foot steps on the rod right at the edge of the boat.
If done correctly you will hear a distinct cracking noise. You should end up with a piece of rod hanging from the rest of the rod. I did this perfectly tonight, so if anyone needs any more tips, shoot me a pm.
Step one: leave rod over hanging front of boat by about 18 inches.
Step two: Pull up to launch about three feet short.
Step three: Stand on front of boat and jump to shore.
Step four: make sure when you jump that your foot steps on the rod right at the edge of the boat.
If done correctly you will hear a distinct cracking noise. You should end up with a piece of rod hanging from the rest of the rod. I did this perfectly tonight, so if anyone needs any more tips, shoot me a pm.