Does anyone use Berkley "Vanish" Fluoro?
I have had 2 big fish break me off at the boat. Both times it was a spinnerbait 3/8 oz on 10lb fluoro, on a baitcaster. I'm using a trilene knot & wetting line ever time I tie on. Does fluoro have a long life (sun and/or sitting on spool for long time affect it)? Drag was set a little to high? I hate losing a fish but, losing my lure too really steams me! Evil or Very Mad Maybe I should pony up & by some better line?

Posted Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:07 pm

You will get all kinds of responses I am sure about the line sucks blah blah. Well I had some trouble with Vanish as well but after switching to a palomar knot and lots and lots of line lubracation to I had more problems with breakage.

I will say this though imo the Vanish Transition I use now instead of the regular Vanish is better at me seeing it and casting it. But when every possible I prefer the 100% Trilene Floro.

Posted Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:59 pm

I've had all sorts of trouble with the Berkley Lines, Vanish, Transition, didn't matter. The Stren Flourcast lasted for about 3 outs before turning into a snarled mess. Hands down the line I've (My Opinion!!) come to trust is actually the Bass Pro Shops XPS Fluoro, good knot strength, and never had it break through it's own failure. (Read My Stupidity in trying to horse the fish resulted in breakage). Just my 2 cents!

Posted Sun Oct 16, 2011 4:59 pm

Stay away from vanish if you can. It is notorious for problems. The berkley 100% floro is better and believe it or not BPS floro is good too. You might want to up the lb test a bit. The fact that floro is ultra invisable allows you to go to a bigger lb. test line. I use a minimum of 14lb floro on a baitcaster. On a spinning rod I never go over 8lb.

Posted Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:49 pm

I use 20 lb Vanish as a leader on almost all of my baitcasters without problems. I always use a trilene knot with it, when tying onto a lure. I'm only using 5 or 6' at a time though

Posted Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:57 pm

I picked the 10lb test for throwing crankbaits, to get maximum depth. Since fluoro sinks can or should I use a heavier test?

When I caught my PB 5.5 last week. Got a huge back lash (hooked the seat next to me, good thing I was alone ooops!) Switched to my spinning reel with 12lb mono. Guess it was a good time for a back lash or would have lost that fish for sure!

Posted Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:10 pm

I get wicked backlashes with mono or fluoro in baitcasters unless everything is adjusted perfectly and the lure is the right weight. That's why I like to use braid and then use a fluoro leader.

Posted Mon Oct 17, 2011 6:27 am

I'll second the BPS fluoro as being good. If you can find it on sale, pick some up. I've heard stories of people casting lures off the "vanish" line. I guess it's not just the line itself that vanishes, but also lures tied to it Wink

10#/12# is pretty reasonable for crankbaits if you really need to get down there. Just set your drag and play the fish accordingly. And keep checking the first few feet of line for kinks and notches.

If you're not needing to hit 15-20 feet, you can probably upsize your line a bit. Just fish a crank that runs a bit deeper than you think it needs to (e.g. run a 12 ft diver in 8-9 feet of water). If you're not hitting bottom, use the next deeper diver.

Posted Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:33 am

I've been using the seaguar InvizX Fluoro and I find it to be just an amazing line. It's pretty stiff, but i've never broken off a fish (crosses fingers, knocks on wood, throws salt, haha). It ties great knots, but like any fluoro make sure the line is wet.

Posted Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:03 am

michaelk

I'll second the BPS fluoro as being good. If you can find it on sale, pick some up. I've heard stories of people casting lures off the "vanish" line. I guess it's not just the line itself that vanishes, but also lures tied to it Wink

10#/12# is pretty reasonable for crankbaits if you really need to get down there. Just set your drag and play the fish accordingly. And keep checking the first few feet of line for kinks and notches.

If you're not needing to hit 15-20 feet, you can probably upsize your line a bit. Just fish a crank that runs a bit deeper than you think it needs to (e.g. run a 12 ft diver in 8-9 feet of water). If you're not hitting bottom, use the next deeper diver.



x2 good advice!!. They have cranks that will hit 20'+ on 14-17lb test. With a moving bait like that you are getting a "reaction" strike. The bass dont have time to look a bait over or become line shy, they are simply reaction to the action and noise of the bait. If you ever get on a BIG bite ,5+, and you have 10 lb test it will be tough to get that fish in the boat. You better know how to free spool and fight a fish and keep it from going where it wants to go.

Posted Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:08 am

i have had no problems with berkley trilene 100% fluoro and the P line 100% fluoro. i mainly use the p line now though. you get more per spool and i'm just a big fan of the overall line. this is both for heavier line applications like 12-15 lb. and lighter line for drop shotting (6 and 8lb). ive caught bass over 5 lbs. on the light line and didn't worry about it breaking off regardless of drag settings. i actually had to tighten it to keep one from going into branches and brush and the knot held up very well.

Posted Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:46 am

I used and abused P-Line 100% Flourocarbon all year. 6lb, 8lb, 10lb, 12lb. All have preformed well. Tried Vicious Pro-Elite in 6lb, very strong(Landed both Pigs the at Dudley Tournament), castability is not bad, but not as good as P-Line. Im gonna try Seaguar Invizx too just cause Ive heard good things. But P-line currently have my vote.

Posted Wed Oct 19, 2011 2:18 pm

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