Bruce,
In low light conditions, fish see blue and purples really well so that could be one issue. I imagine they see those colors decently the rest of the time. Up here, the water tint is often green and the backgrounds are green/brown so I am a fan of using greenish colored braids. Power pro has always worked for me (limp line though so the windknots can be a pain). I think Fireline is what I stay clear of.
For spinning reels, braid or mono work the best. Cheap flouro will fall off the bail although stuff like Trilene works better but is pricey. Line butter may help but I have never tried it. I would go with a braid and tie on a flouro leader if the water clarity is an issue.
As for the baitcaster, I would go with the flouro (Stren is $10 for 250 yds) which should spool the thing two times over and survive 2 serious birdsnest each. You can fish most things with flouro although in topwater its sinks which can kill the action of things like spooks or chuggers. Expensive brands are Seaguar Inviz-X, P-line and Trilene but they are good. It is abrasive resistant too.
I am attaching something from an article I read somewhere?:
1. Fluro- Either used as a leader or spooled on your reel, Fluro works best in either clear water situations or when "line stretch" is undesirable. (Fluro has very little stretch, transmitting strikes better and allowing for stronger hook-sets.) Fluro has the highest "abrasion resistance" of the 3 lines you've mentioned. Many 100% Fluro lines tend to have problems with memory and "stiffness" and they are NOT cheap- therefore many fishermen use it as a leader material when needed. I've had good luck with Seaguar Inviz-X, P-line and Trilene. (Heck, I've even used Vanish in a pinch as leader material!)
- Inviz-X-
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores…
2. Braid- All my spinning gear has Power Pro 6/20 spooled. If I'm fishing super-clear water and feel I'm spooking line-shy fish, I'll simply tie on a leader of Fluro. Braid should/could also be used when fishing for Bass in "jungle" (dense weed) conditions, Flipping/Pitching, "Frog" fishing or when fishing deeper water where you need good strike transmitting line. Braid has a tendency to collect "wind knots". To eliminate wind knots try not to "power cast" in windy conditions- move "up-wind" and cast back WITH the wind. Although Braid is VERY strong it has very little abrasion resistance- don't expect it to last long around rip/rap or woody conditions. Once again, a good idea is to use a leader of Fluro in woody/rip rap conditions.
-Power Pro-
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores…
3. Mono- Mono can be used for a variety of situations. It has more abrasion resistance than (thin) Braid, but has a tendency to stretch- making hook-sets weaker and lost fish a reality. Mono floats higher in the water column than any other line, but also gets "waterlogged", weakening it's construction. It works best with Topwater lures, (due to it's high-floating characteristics). I use Mono on my Topwater outfits & big Crankin' outfits. I rarely use Mono lower than 14LB, (because of it's stretching properties)- Here's a rhyme to remember about Mono- "The higher the test, the less the stretch"! (lol)
Choosing "the perfect line" is really only important when money is riding on each fish you boat, (such as in a tournament situation). Otherwise, if your "fun fishing", stick with 12-17LB Mono for your Baitcasting outfits and 6/20 Power Pro Braid for your Spinning outfits. Mono is cheaper, easier to replace/find and generally works fine as a "multi-functional line". IF you want, bring along a small spool of 14 - 17 LB Fluro as leader material for days when you happen to be fishing in gin-clear water, (Gin-clear water- any waters you can easily see the bottom in 10FT plus).